Friday 28 May
Odometer – 2009 miles. (night at Reading) Hook – Amesbury (41 miles).
This was a day of exhilaration and hope, a suitable finale to all the highs and lows, the ups and downs (literally), the pain and pleasure, frustrations, desperations and joys of this pilgrimage – probably the hardest of the four I have done. As I have said before, a journey like this is a perfect cameo of life, the pilgrimage we all have to make. The more fully we enter into it the more completely human we become; because avoiding its pains and cherry-picking its pleasures is simply not an option. Only a wholehearted acceptance of the package deal will cut the mustard. How each of us comes to terms with this adventure we are born into will depend on our character, background and beliefs. For me, the perfect example of how to do it is found in the life of Jesus and his journeying through Palestine with his small gathering of close friends. One of the uncertainties I had to face nearly every day as the sun sank low was where I would spend the night. The anxiety grew as the dusk closed in; and sometimes the only answer was to sleep rough under the stars. I would look for cover from the wind and from casual observation – the soldier’s word for such cover is a hide – and find a level piece of ground with an indentation for my hip, without which sleep is difficult. Then kick away the stones, spread the Gore-Tex bivouac bag with the sleeping bag inside and crawl in out of the cold with torch, knife, water and phone. Each time those words of Jesus came to mind: ‘Foxes have holes and the birds of the air have nests, but the Son of Man has nowhere to lay his head.’ I would commit myself and those I loved to God and fall asleep.
.
I had already cycled through Headley Court the previous day so we drove to the Cock Inn, our lunch RV in Headley. My daughters Fiona and Madeleine were already there, with Madeleine’s three children, and later we were joined by my cousin Mary. It was a lovely reunion. We ordered lunch, but it took so long that I only had 20 minutes to eat it and get back to Headley Court where I was due to join a party for a conducted tour. I got there a bit late, but needn’t have worried: others were even later. Soon a lieutenant colonel arrived to take us round. There were about fifteen of us from various organizations: medics, designers of special equipment, other charities and six connected with Help for Heroes – including two young ladies from the organisation who made themselves known to me and said they had been following my progress. Apparently, I was the current most profitable challenger, and frankly, this astonished me. There were also three young men supporting Help for Heroes by cycling coast-to-coast across the USA, 3250 miles. Sensibly, they would have a support team. They asked me about long-distance cycling, especially the factors deciding rate of progress, and I was able to help them. I admired their enterprise which was in the planning phase, and was envious of their excitement.
We spent 1½ hours being shown every aspect of the place. It is a magnificent Elizabethan-Jacobean house set in splendid grounds with many additional buildings for new facilities coming available. It was left first to the RAF and is now used by all three services as a centre of excellence for getting soldiers back on their feet. I was there as a patient many years ago and much of it I remembered, but there have also been huge advances with modern fitness machines and cutting-edge medical technology. The staff, covering many disciplines from neurosurgery to physiotherapy, are world class. The aim is to get each soldier able to lead as fulfilling, normal and independent a life as possible by the time he or she leaves. Every patient is given a recovery programme unique to his or her needs. We saw one soldier who had suffered sever brain damage, but had some definite motor faculties for which new equipment was being produced from the drawing board for his needs. Prosthetic limbs are designed and programmed precisely for the individual – at £17,000 a limb. But this is a drop in the ocean compared to the cost of full lifetime care that would have to be provided if he could not eventually walk. The whole atmosphere was as I remembered it – upbeat and hopeful. The place is inspiring, as are the people it serves.
One other parallel that a pilgrimage has with life is the people one meets on the way. Making allowances for the natural everyday irritations that can make our relationships gritty at times, out of the dozens of people I met, I can only remember meeting two who were not, deep down, just plain good. Every single one of them was in some way or other worth dying for. (That last comment came straight off the end of my pen and the truth of it has hit me between the eyes.) By and large, despite the news media, humanity of its nature is potentially very good. That is not to deny the existence of terrible evil in the world, but merely to show it up as an unnatural aberration, like cancer. This may sound naïve, but it was a source of constant encouragement to me. Today, within 5 minutes, I was pulled over by two cars, as had often happened.
Car 1: ‘Are you Chris?’
‘Er, yes.’
‘Chris Evans and Ken Bruce on Radio 2 have told us to stop you and give you money.
Here you are, mate. You’re bloody marvellous.’
Car 2: ‘I spotted you on the road. Were you in the Army?’
‘You bet.’
…….
‘I was in Air Defence – 12 Regiment, in the Gulf war.’
‘So was I! Attached to 10 Battery.’
And so the conversation went on, ending in another note being stuffed into my hand. The heart sings.
And that was how it had been the entire journey: people going out of their way to support and help. At heart, people are just plain good. But I have jumped ahead a bit. After the tour of Headley Court it was getting late – later than predicted – and I realized it would be impossible for me to reach Amesbury that night if I started cycling from where I had stopped the previous evening. If I failed to get to Amesbury I would not make Gillingham on Saturday noon where a reception had been laid on. I therefore decided I would have to restart my journey at Hook instead of Woking: it would still exceed the target of 2,000 miles. I therefore called up Vicky and Andy in the van and they dropped me at Hook from where I resumed my journey.
The going was good, but even so, in the hours left to me, I only reached my B&B in Amesbury by 2100 hrs. I had warned the owner by mobile telephone that I would be late and he said that it was not a problem. He made me most comfortable and I slept well that night, albeit a little hungry as I had had no supper. My mileage had reached 2,009 and tomorrow would be my last day. It was an exciting thought.